The menu at Bridgewater Bistro regularly features a fresh salmon entree with preparations that take advantage of the flavors of the season. On my last visit, it was a thick oven-poached filet served with a bright heirloom tomato-caper-cilantro relish. During the fall, you may find wild mushroom preparations combined with salmon. Salmon also appears on the appetizer menu at the Bridgewater, a moist house-smoked salmon laid over a thin piece of brie cheese on flatbread with shaved red onion and a maple-honey drizzle that offers a beautifully balanced bite of smoky, sweet and creamy. Bridgewater Bistro overlooks the Columbia River at the foot of the pier that is now home to the Cannery Pier Hotel, built on 100-year-old pilings of the former Union Fisherman's Cooperative Packing Company. Bridgewater Bistro, Astoria (503) 325-6777.